Hinge Shims
If the replacement of hinge screws is not enough to bring the door in line, greater adjustment can be achieved by placing shims behind the bottom and middle hinges. Follow the same steps as above but in this case, remove the jamb screws from the middle and bottom hinges, place shims behind the bottom hinge as necessary to align the door, figure 24, and replace the screws. Then shim the middle hinge as needed for a good fit. Replace the screws and remove the wedge from under the door.

Shimming the Door Frame
If a door sags too much to be corrected by tightening or shimming the hinges, it may be necessary to re-shim the frame. Begin by cutting the caulk between the trim and the wall. Carefully remove the interior trim from around the door, figure 25. Remove the nails and screws that fasten the hinge jamb to the wall stud, figure 26. Once the jamb is loose, add shims above and below the bottom hinge and/or remove shims from near the top hinge until the door margin is an even 1/8" across the top and along the latch jamb. When the margin is correct, add other shims at points along the frame or remove existing ones as necessary to provide uniform lateral support for the entire frame assembly, figure 26. Close the door to verify proper margins. Drive nails or screws through the jamb, shims and into studs to anchor the jamb to the wall. Replace the trim, spackle the nail holes, caulk and paint as necessary.

Re-setting a Frame
Where a door has been installed in a wall opening that was not plumb and square, it may be necessary to re-set the entire unit. Frame removal may also be required in order to repair water damage under the threshold.
Note: Re-setting a frame is a major undertaking, and should be considered only if other remedies are inadequate.
To start, cut through the paint and caulk between the interior trim and the wall. Carefully pry the trim loose, figure 25. Remove the trim and set it aside. Next you may need to use a utility knife to cut the drywall back from the space between the jambs and the wall studs. Then remove any insulation and shims from the gap so you can locate the nails and screws that fasten the jambs to the studs.
Loosen the latch and head jambs by removing nails and screws.
Now loosen the exterior brickmold or trim. Again use a utility knife to cut through paint and caulk around the trim. Pry the trim loose. If working on a patio door it should now be held in place only by the side jamb having the non-operating door, with brickmold loose on the exterior.
Use a pry bar between the jambs and studs to make adjustments as required to bring the frame unit into plumb and square condition. Apply shims where needed to hold the frame uniformly in proper alignment, figure 26. Anchor the jambs again to the studs. Use screws long enough to go through jambs, shims and well into the studs, figure 23.
Re-attach the exterior and interior trim. Spackle over the nail heads, caulk and paint as required.

Latch Jamb Adjustments
If the door margin is too tight on the latch side, or if the latch is misaligned with the strike plate, this is probably caused by inadequate anchoring on the hinge jamb side.
If shimming doesn't seem to be the problem, and if the latch misalignment is minimal, adjustments can be made to the strike plate. Closely examine the strike for wear marks that would indicate where the latch has been striking it. Remove the strike, and with it clamped in a vise, use a flat file to enlarge its latch opening in the direction of the wear marks, figure 27. Lightly buff the filed edge with fine sandpaper or steel wool to remove burrs. Now re-attach the strike.